ASIAN LOGOGRAM TREND

Human Collective// The Dope Lyfe// City Approval// Bucket Hat via Tumblr

Yo. What's with the Asian logograms/characters/letters lately? Whether it's Kanji or Traditional Chinese, it's poppin' up everywhere. The streetwear companies seem to be its main endorsements, I haven't see any designers use it on the runway, though that could just be my ignorance. Paired with all the black monochrome and sportswear influences, it's presence is hard to ignore. To be quite honest though, I love it. (Even it's a gimmicky sort of fad!)

DIY MALEFICENT CAP

I was finally able to create something myself. It's definitely been a while, but it's substantial, so that counts for something, right? In any case, I took some inspiration when I saw photos from a Bobby Abley runway show. His Disney motifs definitely caught my eye, and my favorite part were the hats. They were made in collaboration with Piers Atkinson, a pretty rad milliner. I had just seen Maleficent only a few weeks ago, too, so my enthusiasm was still pretty fresh. (Can we just talk about Angelina Jolie's amazing performance? Ugh. So good.) 

Bobby Abley 2014 x Piers Atkinson // Maleficent (2014)

1//  A black cap. Pleather or Leather (You'll want something fairly stiff to hold an upright shape). Stuffing. Needles. Thread. OPTIONAL: Hot Glue (Which I did end up using.)

2// Using cardstock as a template, trace and cut 2 sets of horns out of your material of choice. Because there is a difference between the inside and outside, make sure you have the right sides cut out in the right shapes. The white side of the horn in the picture is the inside. I used an interfacing, but it was really weak, and isn't necessary at all.

3// Sew inside out, leaving the base open. I used a basic whip stitch. I doubt it matters as long as its secure! Turn it right-side out, and stuff. Use a pen or something to really shove the stuffing into the corners. It helps if you use little pieces rather than large clumps. Repeat for the second!

4// I'm sure there's a more accurate way, but for the next part, gauge how large the base is now that it's stuffed. Cut out a circle from your material a smidge larger than the base of the horns. It's better having it a little bigger than too small.

5// Sew the circle to the base. I used a blanket stitch. It'll probably look gross as hell, but don't fret my pet.

6// This is my favorite part. Using a long piece of thread, secure one end to the base of the horn. Now, spiral around the horn all the way up to the tip, shaping it as you go to make sure it's smooth. This is a make it or break it detail, folks. Doesn't it look like a totally rad croissant?

7// This is where I got lazy and used hot glue. Hot glue or sew the horns to the cap! Make sure to put them higher up than you would usually to make them look like Maleficent's. Otherwise, it'll look like a bull's horns or something. I hate how stringy and messy the glue gets.

8// Now to cover up that hot mess express, cut out 2 strips shaped like circles. Make them a little larger than the circles you used for the base. It's important that it's not a straight cut, otherwise it would pucker and pleat in the next step.

9// Lay the circular strips around the seam where the base of the horns meet the hat. Make sure it can go all the way around. Hot glue or sew into place.

10// Done!

IMPROPER PROPORTIONS

Proportionality, I find, is an aspect of attire that people often forget or dismiss. Although not as initially perceivable as color, shape or texture, it's an essential element to fashion just as balance is to art. What I love most though, are the ones that are unexpected, clever, or even downright silly. It's these improper proportions that bring interest for me. Not everything has to be hip-length, or end at the shoe. Things shouldn't always have to have a slim, modern taper. We've seen the girls do it already with the resurgence of high-waisted denim and trousers, as well as the boys with their cuffed t-shirts and jeans. But beyond those, how do we, average consumers, translate the strange art forms of couture towards an everyday approach?

Images via tumblr (model: KIM WONJUNG)

I've really been gravitating towards longer sleeved t-shirts. Most guys probably wanna show off their arms, but for me, it's a refreshing change from that 50's greaser look of rolled-up sleeves. Although it visually shortens the arm, I like how it reminds me of young kids dressed in clothes that aren't quite their size. Or perhaps middle-school boys wearing their dad's clothes to a dance. It looks young to me. Very boyish.

Images via Zara & tumblr

Pulling it back up to the waist. The 90's were a fantastic year for bubblegum pop, but it left behind a legacy, a term youths like to call: "sagging". But all kidding aside, I think the waist is a very aesthetic length at which to block the top and bottom off. [Unless you're me, and have an odd sort of diamond shape figure with large hips.] Either with a jacket that sits at the waist, or tucking in a top, it looks both sleek and crisp. Going off on a tangent here, I like how denim jackets are so versatile in that they can be worn fitted and at the waist as is "proper", or go oversized for the whole street-baby look. 

 

Images via Fashionisto & tumblr

And just to wrap up this post: Volume. English designer Gareth Pugh is noted for his works incorporating volume, morphing the human silhouette into an inflatable doll, both horrifying yet fascinating. But I digress. Neoprene has definitely been on trend as many bloggers have probably discussed. Boxy sweaters and outerwear made from stiff, unconventional materials have been on the rise. And while wide-legged pants have also had a resurgence among high-fashion designers, I don't see it being an interest to the masses. Nor do I find it very attractive. I, personally, love a voluminous top half, off-set with a narrow cigarette pant and chunky boot. For both guys and girls.

Love it.

NEIL BARRETT

Can we just talk about how amazing Neil Barrett's S/S '14 collection is? Like. Despite how much I love clothes, I hardly ever watch runway shows or review collections just because of their inaccessibility for me as a consumer. But every time I see a piece from this collection, I just think, "Damn! Dat's a fine shirt." It's fantastic. It definitely references his past collection in terms of a restricted color palette and use of shapes, (which is what I love in clothes myself). However, unlike his A/W '13 collection, this newer one features more organic, unrestricted shapes. Even the squares in the plaid are arrayed in a way that can only be described as a playful frenzy. I wonder if you could DIY the simpler pieces.... It's just so good, man.

 

    

7T'Z

Campy & flamboyant -- the seventies.

// The image at the bottom is a screenshot of the 2011 Korean film, Sunny. I recommend it. It's really visual.

HEROIN CHIC

Kate Moss
Francisco Lachowski
Simone Nobili
Sky Ferreira

//I really like the heroin chic look. There. I said it. While I don't condone drug use, I can't help but gravitate toward models who look tired and beat up, and wish I appeared similarly, especially when they have those dark lines underneath their eyes. That's my favorite part. Made popular during the 90's by none other than Kate Moss, its lingering influence still pervades the industry. While some argue that the trend is over with the presence of the "sexy era" (e.g. Giselle Bundchen, Adriana Lima) I still believe there is that niche market. Waif-like and frumpy, it connotes familiar (and admittedly tired) buzzwords like edgy, grunge, raw, etc. For me, it brings to mind sheer adolescent madness a la Skins or something. Yes sir. I love it.

P.S. It's weird. I feel like I have a lot to say, but when it comes to actually writing in an actual blog post, it seems so short!

WHITE + LEATHER + MUSCLE

Images via Pelayo Diaz/ Yu Wei Lo/ Ivania Carpio

Putting off all these "potential blog posts" for too long! Now I'm just vomiting them out with as much enthusiasm as I can. I've really been digging the onslaught of people wearing white socks lately. Normally associated with the world of athletics, it seems sport-luxe. A lot of people find it distasteful for that very reason. It's pleasantly jarring. As much as I love the whole printed sock thing going on, this is starting to bring me greater satisfaction. Speaking of white socks, it reminds me of the sock + sandal debates that plague sartorial audiences. To be honest, I do like it. Tres Raf Simons. However, I must admit, I doubt I'd wear it myself. It reminds me far too much of my middle-aged Asian uncles of childhoods past.

Images via Yu Wei Lo/ Pelayo Diaz

Leather shorts. Yeah. This is some murky territory. One wrong Google search and before you know it, you're in the depths of the kinky S&M universe. I don't even know if I like them all that much, but I must since I keep wanting them. I doubt they'd even be flattering. It'd just make me sweaty. In any case, I think one factor that is crucial in leather shorts is length. Traditionally associated with womenswear, I think these look best if they're at least knee length, if not longer. I know its hip to have your shorts mid-thigh and stuff, but when your pair mid-thigh with leather, we're all just gonna start getting uncomfortable.

Images via Inked Magazine/ UNIF

And to bring this post to a close, I'd like to make plain my affection for the muscle tee. I know this isn't for everyone (Tracey), but I find it quintessentially British. Very British, very grunge. Very...tumblr, to say the least. Seldom do I see it here in the States. I must make the distinction, however, between this and the average tank top (or vest if you're in the UK). The muscle tee is a basic t-shirt without the sleeves. It still retains a high neck opening, rather than the roomier cut silhouette of a tank. In terms of aesthetics, I imagine it to look best on the emaciated, gangly, platinum-blonde youths of London. And though I fulfill none of those standards, I still find myself hacking off the sleeves of my tees, donning them while simultaneously sucking in my cheeks in the hopes that I too, can look British grunge. lol.